Part One: Religious History – Purim Katan
Part Two: Food History – Butter [current]
A Butter Story – It’s Origin, History, and Interesting Facts
D. The History and Origin of Butter
The birth of butter is very much like the birth of cheese, it was created by accident. The theory for the origin of butter is as follows: Sometime around 6.000 BCE in Africa, a traveler strapped a sheepskin full of milk onto an animal. During the journey this sack full of milk (probably warm) was continuously jostled had transformed into something less-liquidly. This unintentional inventor decided to taste it, and it was to his liking. He liked it so much he told a friend, and they told a friend, and the idea for making butter began to spread.
Most likely early butter was made from domesticated animals other than cows. Early civilization did not only use butter for consumption. The ancient Romans used it as a medication (eaten to cure coughs and spread on the body to relieve achy joints) and in cosmetics; however, they avoided eating it as food for centuries, preferring olive oil over the food eaten by their enemies (from Gaul). The ancient Sumerians believed the transformation from milk to butter was mystical and would offer it to their g-ds. The Hindus have been offering a form of clarified butter (called ) to Lord Krishna for the past 3,000 years. Butter even makes its appearance in the Torah; when the angels visit Abraham and Sarah, they are served meat, milk, and butter (Genesis 8:18 (חֶמְאָה) although may times translated as “curds.”).
Butter became more popular in Northern Europe than in Northern Africa or around the Mediterranean; not because it tasted better in the north, but because the temperature was colder, and the butter could last longer. [Fast Fact: Because the pre-medieval tribes of Northern Europe began using butter so much, they were referred to as “butter eaters” by ancient writers such as the Greek poet Anaxandrides.] Butter became such a large part of European’s diets that they found it hard to give it up during Lent. The rich, however, would pay large sums of money to the church to allow them to enjoy this delicious edible (called a tithe). The tithes were so large that it allowed the church to build a cathedral from these funds; the Tour de Beurre Cathedral in Rouen, France, named the “Butter Tower.” The love and enjoyment of butter continued to spread around the world.
E. How is Butter Made?
The process for making butter has been the same since the first time it was made eons ago. Milk is churned (agitated, shaken) so it separates into fatty balls of butter and buttermilk. It was originally churned by hand and is still done so by some people even today. However, most of the butter you see on a grocer’s shelves is created through an electronic churning process.
As you will see below (in section F), there are different steps added, various ingredients infused, and a different percentage of fats that differ between the different varieties of butter (and/or margarine).
What is the Difference Between Butter and Cheese?
I began the last section (D) stating that butter and cheese were both created by accident. In addition they are both made from the same ingredient – milk. The big difference is that butter is made up mostly of milk fat, while cheese is mostly milk protein. Then both are churned. So far they seem like they are created in the same fashion – so what makes them different? The big difference is the addition of rennet, an enzyme that makes the milk curdle. The first cheese was probably created when a person placed milk in a sheepskin, and the rennet in the skin caused the curdling and the first cheese was made. For more about cheese, its history and origin, see The Gift of Cheese.
F. Types of Butter (Dairy, Non-Dairy Substitutes, and Others)
American Butter
American butter is butter made in America (says Mr. Obvious). It is made to made to comply with USDA standards, which means that it contains 80% butterfat. Other countries have their own requirement for the percentage of butterfat (e.g., European countries are between 82 and 85%).
Amish Butter
Traditional Amish Butter is made by slowly hand-churning cream, then hand-rolled into two-pound packages and wrapped in parchment paper. Besides its packaging (not shaped into four-ounce sticks), it has a higher fat and is creamier than usual (American) butter. Note that some companies manufacture and sell “Amish Butter” which has the same ingredients, but usually made by machines instead of by hand. Is there a difference in taste? I’ll let you be the judge.
Artisan Butter
This is when butter is taken to new levels. After the milk is pasteurized bacterial cultures are added and allowed to grow (ferment) – even the milk used is specific to the artisan butter one is creating (e.g., milk from cows in a particular region of a country). The ultimate taste will be affected by the type of bacteria used – which usually has an tangy (or acidy) flavor, and it is creamier than traditional butter. Once this process is completed the mixture is then churned. Note that yogurt and sour cream is created in a similar fashion. After the liquid is removed it can then be yet transformed further by mixing it with different flavors (garlic, chocolate, lemon, etc.)
Body Butter (Inedible)
Body Butter is a skin moisturizer (and not for consumption). It is usually made with cocoa butter, shea butter, and mango butter, and then infused with essential oils.
Bog Butter
It is not uncommon for residents of Ireland to find large masses of butter (weighing up to 100 pounds) when digging in bogs that age to 2,000 to even 4,000 years old. It is believed that early Celtic people placed butter underground (usually in earthenware jars) to preserve it and possibly keep it hidden from thieves. What is interesting is that it is still edible even after centuries underground. Note that although making and storing bog butter is no longer usually practiced in Ireland, a version called smeg is still processed in North Africa.
Browned Butter
Have you ever added butter to a pan and let is cook for a little too long? The butter turns darker (almost brownish). If you take that melted butter and cool it until it solidifies, it is browned butter. It is good for making savory sauces or I use it when making eggs.
Clarified Butter
Although clarified butter is also known as ghee, I refer to clarified butter as double-melted butter. This is because the process of making clarified butter requires the preparer to melt butter and then separate the water and milk solids from the whole butter. What is left over tastes great, is not as perishable, and good for cooking foods that require a higher smoke point. Note that it is best made with an original butter that has a higher milk fat (such as European Butter), and perfect making Hollandaise Sauce. Note that clarified butter is akin to makhan / white butter before the milk is separated from the fat, which also makes clarified butter lactose-free.
Cocoa Butter
There are two prime usages of cocoa butter today: to make chocolate and to help skin. Cocoa butter is a vegetable fat that is extracted from the cocoa bean (by fermenting, drying, roasting, and pressing). It is edible and can be used as a replacement for butter in recipes when cooking.
Compound Butter
Compound butter is butter that has been made softer and more pliable so that other flavors can be added to it such as spices, herbs, and sweeteners. In other words, it is regular butter compounded with additional flavors. It is great as a “different” spread or used to enhance other dishes that call for traditional butter, but you want to give it a little oomph or an extra layer of flavor.
Cultured Butter
- See Artisan Butter
European-Style Butter
European-Style butter is churned longer than American Butter and is made with a higher percentage of butterfat (82-85%) than in America (80%). Each country has their own requirements. The butter therefore has less moisture, and more of a consistency of yogurt or sour cream making it perfect for baking pastries. The EU has requirements between 80-90% for salted and 82-90% for unsalted. Also note that it is usually a brighter yellow in appearance than its American cousin.
Goat Butter
Butter can be made from milk produced by animals other than cows, such as goats. Goat butter is lactose free and consumed by those that cannot have regular butter. From personal experience, the taste is a little different (bolder) and can add some oomph when used in cooking.
Ghee
- See Clarified Butter
Grass-Fed Butter
No, the butter is not fed with grass, but the cows that produce the milk for this butter are fed only grass. Grass-fed butter is claimed to be more nutritious than other types of butters.
Irish Butter
Irish Butter is a high-butterfat rich European butter (82%) that is made in Ireland. It usually has a golden color that is produced due to the grass grown in Ireland that the cows graze upon.
Maakhan (or Makhan)
This is white butter produced in India. [See White Butter]
Mango Butter
Mango “butter” is made from the oil of mango seeds. It is usually used as an ingredient in skin-care products. However, there are some spreads for sale – nutritionally mango butter contains high amounts of Vitamin A, C, and E.
Margarine
Margarine is not butter. It is a substitute to butter. There is an old myth that margarine was invented to fatten up turkeys. After this method failed, the investors didn’t want to lose their money and re-marketed it as a butter substitute. This assertion is completely false. As the saying goes, “necessity is the mother of invention” and that is how the idea for margarine got its start. Butter was so popular in France in the late 19th century, that the farmers could not produce enough. In response, Emperor Napoleon III offered a huge award to anyone that could create a butter substitute. A French chemist by the name of Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès claimed the award in 1869 by creating a spread he called oleomargarine (later shortened to margarine) made of rendered beef fat and milk. A little more than a half-decade later this butter substitute helped countries out of jam during the Great Depression and World War II which brought about butter shortages. Over time, the ingredients evolved into a spread that was cheaper to make (vegetable oil and yellow food coloring). This cheaper alternative also brought about a love affair by Americans towards margarine. [Fast fact: Margarine has been called “spreadable butter.”] However, during recent decades as some people began to care more about what they ate, they have been turning back to butter (even with its saturated fats) because it is better for the heart than traditional margarine (note that in recent years there are “healthier” margarines on the market).
Organic Butter
Organic Butter refers to butter made from the milk of cows that were not fed with anything grown with pesticides or the use of synthetic fertilizers. The cows themselves are also not injected with any hormones or other growth drugs.
Peanut and other Nut Butters
Peanut butter and similar “butters” are made from nuts. They are usually made by grinding the nuts into a paste. The paste is pliable and used as a spread on bread and other food items. Besides peanuts (which is the most common), other nut butters have been made from hazelnuts, cashews, almonds, pistachios, and a whole lot more.
Plant-Based Butter
This is “butter” created without the use of any animal byproducts (milk) – usually from the oils of various plants, nuts, or seeds (e.g., almond, coconut, olive, etc.). Generally, there is no major difference between plant-based butter and margarine. However, some margarines do contain milk or milk byproducts – so look at the ingredients to be sure.
Shea Butter
Shea butter is a fat that is extracted from the nuts of a shea tree (most grow in West Africa). It us mostly used in skin-care products. If you are interested to know, shea butter is also sold to be consumed (it has a number of health benefits).
Salted vs. Unsalted Butter
Plainly (and obviously) stated, unsalted butter is butter without any added salt. Salted butter has added salt. Why is this important? It is because when cooking most recipes call for unsalted butter so that you can add the salt to taste. [Fast fact: there is about 1 teaspoon of salt in every cup of salted butter.]
Smen Butter
Smen is a butter made in the Middle East and North Africa. It was traditionally made by adding a lot of salt then mixing it to melted and skimmed butter; after kneading it all together, the mixture would be placed into an air-tight containers, and burying it underground to keep it preserved. It has a cheesy flavor and is great for cooking. It is similar to bog butter of the ancient Celts (see above).
Sweet Cream Butter
This is butter that is made with sweet cream, which provides it with a sweeter taste. Depending on the cream used (some can be made with cultured cream or sour cream) can vastly change the taste. It is popularly used in sweets such as brownies, frosting, or crepes. Some sweet cream butters may be salted or unsalted (check the ingredients).
Whey Butter
Whey Butter is produced by first undergoing the processes of making cheese, then separating out the cream from the whey. There a few different processes in making whey butter, and usually made by skilled butter craftsmen. Many farms or manufacturers do not produce whey butter due to the special skills needed as well as the additional time to produce.
Whipped Butter
Whipped butter is butter that is softened (making it more spreadable) through process of whipping the butter together with nitrogen gas. Don’t worry, it will not harm you – the nitrogen gas is used instead of air, so it does not oxidize the butter making it spoil faster.
White Butter
White Butter differs from other butters in that it begins by first collecting thick layers of milk cream (called makhan in India). It is then churned, and the water is separated from the cream. The whey is then removed from the remaining butter. White butter has less trans-fats than regular butter.
F. Interesting Facts and Information About and Relating to Butter
1. Butter Rebellion
How bad can butter get? In 1766 bad butter served to students at Harvard University was so bad that it prompted a student uprising comically referred to as the Harvard Great Butter Rebellion of 1776. The spark of revolution occurred when a student jumped up upon his chair and loudly exclaimed: “Behold our butter stinketh! Give us therefore butter that stinketh not!” That student was the grandfather to author Henry David Thoreau.
2. How Did the Butterfly Get its Name?
The origin of the butterfly’s name is disputed. Some common theories include:
- The old German name for butterflies is milchdieb (“milk thief”) and botterliker (“butter licker”), and eventually evolved into butterfly in English.
- It is named after its color (specifically the sulfur butterflys)
- It is named after the color of excrement after first metamorphosizing, which is a bright yellow. The Dutch called it boterschijte, which translates to
Butter Poop”
3. Are there Different Grades of Butter?
In the Unites States, the USDA established three different grades of butter: AA, A, and B. The grades are based on four different characteristics of the butter: flavor, body, character, and the amount of salt. For the description of each grade, see the USDA website.
4. Are There Nutrition & Health Benefits to Eating Butter?
This is an age-old question that has been debated by doctors. As per WebMD: although butter is a high-calorie food and high in saturated fats [one tablespoon = 102 calories and 12 grams of fat), there has been a correlation seen between the consumption of butter and lower chances of diabetes, obesity, and hearth problems (butter does not contain any sugar or carbohydrates, but does contain Vitamins A, D, E, and Calcium).
Some of the health benefits of consuming butter include: lowering your chance of cancer, strengthen bones, and healthier skin.
5. How did the Butternut Squash Get Its Name?
No there is no butter in butternut squash. It gets its name because it has a nutty taste and a buttery flavor, and the flesh of the squash has a buttery consistency. The butternut squash is a cross-breed created by a farmer (that was not a breeder) in the 1940s.
6. Is There Butter in Butterball Turkeys?
There is no butter in or on a Butterball Turkey. It is simply a fresh turkey injected and basted with a secret blend of spices. The origin of the creation of the name Butterball (Butterball Farms – in Grand Rapids, Michigan) is unknown. All we know is that the name was trademarked in 1940 by a woman named Ida Walker.
7. Is There Butter in Butterbeer?
Butterbeer, which was made popular by the movie Harry Potter, includes butter as one of its ingredients. In the books of the series, the recipe includes three ingredients: butterscotch, sugar, and water. [Fun fact: Butterscotch includes butter as an ingredient, but not Scotch.] However, if you look at various websites, the recipes differ (from slight to extreme), but they all include butter.
8. What is the flavoring in Butter Pecan?
Butter Pecan is a flavor created by the fusion of three different ingredients: Pecans, vanilla extract/flavoring, and butter. It is first made by roasting pecans in butter (and hence, how it received its name). Over the years it has become a preeminent flavor of ice cream. It is estimated that the butter pecan flavored ice cream first originated sometime in the late 1800s / early 1900s.
9. Is Buttermilk Butter or Milk?
Buttermilk (traditionally) is the liquid that is left over after churning the butter – so it is really milk (that is then left to be cultured). Today, buttermilk is usually made by adding cultures to fresh pasteurized milk. So, buttermilk does not contain any butter, and its traditional process also has a lower fat content than regular milk.
10. Origins of phrases/idioms using the word “butter”
a. To “Butter Up” Someone
I have found a few different versions for its origins:
- Just as you butter bread to make it softer and tastier, it is similar to complimenting someone (spreading on the compliments) in order to get something in return
- In ancient India, it was a Hindu practice to throw globs of butter (ghee) at the statues of the deities to seek favor.
b. “Earning your bread and butter”
This phrase most likely originated during the Middle Ages. During this time, the most prominent meal consisted of bread and butter (usually with soup on the side), and it is speculated that once a peasant earned any money they would go out and purchase these items so that they would have food for themselves and their family.
c. “Know which side your bread is buttered”
The idiom is first known to appear in Proverbs by John Heywood in 1546 (more specifically “I knowe on whiche syde my breade is buttred.”). It means that a person knows where their benefits come from/ which people are helpful to you.
d. “Butter Fingers / Butterfingers”
This term describes someone that drops an item (usually someone that drops a ball). It refers to someone who’s hands are full of butter, making them slippery, so they cannot hold on to anything. Although some linguists had attributed this phrase to Charles Dickens, the first known use of “butterfingers” goes back to the book A Well-Kept Kitchen (by Gervase Markham) published in 1615 referring to cooks that cannot hold onto their kitchen tools because their hands are greased with butter.
Note that there is a candy bar called Butterfingers. It was created in 1922 by Otto Schnering (who also crated the Babe Ruth bar). The name of the candy came about by a way of a contest. Someone who called themselves a klutz submitted the name, and it won. [Happy 100th Birthday to Butterfingers!!!!]
Keep on Cookin’
Chef Lon
Recipe for Butter Sauce for Fish
One of my most popular dishes at home (and for any friends that have tasted it) is my fish in butter sauce. First of all, the better the fish, the better. Secondly, a heavier fat content (i.e., European butter) is a good choice of butter for this. A few years ago some good friends of ours invited us to stay in their suite with them. For a number of the meals I cooked a few of the meals for the crowd of us (the suite had a full kitchen). When we went shopping at the local market I saw some fresh fish that looked really good, and I knew what I was going to make for one of the dinners – fish in butter sauce. Unfortunately, I cannot remember what type of fish I purchased (but I believe it was a perch/rock fish), but I made sure to get a higher-fat butter. There was not much of a choice, but I do remember that I picked up a butter produced in the Netherlands. Everyone raved, and there was enough butter sauce to use the next day on other items.
So it is to the Queen of the Realm and the Jester that this recipe and article are dedicated.
I have made this dish many, many times but I do not think I had ever written down the recipe. I am going to try to memorialize it here, and will hopefully make it between now and the time I publish this article (I am currently typing this on an Amtrak train heading back Northeast after enjoying a few days of southern cooking.). But, I will try to measure the actual amounts of each ingredient and correct the below recipe when I have a chance.
Ingredients
2 lbs fish (fillets work best vs. a steak cut)
2 ¼ cups butter (unsalted)
2 tsb salt
½ cup of finely chopped garlic
5 medium to large sized tomatoes
- cut two into 1/8ths (or 1/6ths if tomatoes are too small)
- slice one into not-so-thin slices, and
- cut the remaining two in half
1/8th cup garlic powder
2 tsp lemon juice (squeezed from a lemon recommended – but you can use lemon juice)
Recipe
Step one – Melt two cups of European Butter in a saucepan
Step two – Melt ½ cup of butter in a large frying pan and add the chopped garlic. Continue to stir the garlic so that it begins to brown a little bit – but DO NOT burn. Put this pan aside (do not wash!!!)
Step three – Add the garlic/butter mix to the butter in the saucepan, and mix – place the flame on low
Step four – Add the tomatoes pieces cut in 8ths to the mixture. Take the 4 tomato halves and squeeze all of its pulp/juice into the butter mix (get as much of it as you can). Also mix in the lemon juice. Let simmer for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are soft before beginning step five. Also note, do not turn off the flame – keep simmering until all cooking is complete – and remember to stir it every few minutes.
Step five – Replace the frying pan back onto the range and place the flame on medium. Add the butter/garlic/tomato mixture to the pan – just enough to cover the bottom. When butter sauce is hot, add your fish fillets. Add a little of the butter sauce to the top of the fish and cook turning only twice. The fish is done when it flakes easily.
Step six – It usually requires me to cook two pan-fulls of the fish. If so, repeat step #5. I usually place fish into a long & flat ceramic container and turn the oven onto 225 and place the fish in (pre-heated) ceramic container so it stays warm while I am cooking the second batch.
Step seven – Once all the cooking is finished, turn on the broiler. Then place all fish into the ceramic, pour a little more of the butter sauce on top. Then arrange the remaining sliced tomatoes on top of the fish – then place the container into the broiler for no more than 3 minutes (you just want to get the tomato slices slightly singed. [Place the butter sauce on the table with serving spoon in case anyone else wants to add it to their dish, or to use to dip the garlic bread (which I do).]
Serve warm. It goes great with garlic bread and some rice. Broccoli is a good vegetable for this dish that compliments well. Although many would suggest a white wine to go with fish, I have matched it up with something blushed vino.
Sources
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